Each Chef Should Study At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Restaurant Secures 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

When compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. But, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.